Read the notes in digital files, then start assembly.
Follow the Shapeoko Assembly Instructions as per standard, however replace the larger pieces of alu. extrusion on the bottom with the mechanical kit’s included makerslide, and use the end plates’ out most holes for mounting. Do not put the machines fully together, but keep the main assembly parts ready (gantry carriage, gantry rail, and Y rails.) Be sure to follow any instructions included with the parts like the clamps and wasteboard.
Take an M3 tap, and almost glacially slowly tap the small holes found on the microswitches.
NOTE: This can crack the switch if you are too fast or not straight, rotate the tap at around 1rpm and listen for creaks.
NOTE 2: This configuration is very, VERY fragile, only do if you already know your machine wont obliterate the switches like mine did.
Attach the switches with the newly threaded holes in the small elongated slot on either side of the motor plates, use 2 per axis. You’re on your own for the Z axis but it is doable.
This step is a little ghetto, so bare with me.
Take 2 pieces of 1/4" rod, minimum 8 inches long and slide it into the channels of the maker slide, leave the front most one empty, for the waste board attaches there. Everywhere else should have a rod in it. Do this for both the front and back “supports”.
Mount the spindle assembly back on the Z axis if you took it off or put it on in the first place, then put the gantry carriage onto the X axis dual-slide. Then take the sub gantry and slide it onto both pieces of Y axis rail. Before closing the Y rail off, fire 2 M5 insertion nuts down the maker slide on the side of the limit switches. Then bolt the Y rail closed and level the machine. Once that is complete and your belts can move the machine without slipping (test this by moving it back and forward with your hand) take some M5 screws and place them in the maker slide insertion nuts to act as stops for the limit switches. Then place some screws in the available holes along side the X axis limit switches on the Y plates to they have something to hit as well. 25mm M5s or longer will work.
Wire the motors as you see fit with the lengths of 4 conductor wire, if your X axis has wire droop like mine did see the next step. Be sure to give yourself plenty of slack on the wires.
Get some plastic tubing, a small piece of balsawood at least feet long and cut it in half, then nail the halves together at each end, then rotate the boards until they pivot freely around the nail, like a pivot. Run the X axis and Z axis wires through the plastic tube then rig something to hold the tube up at the pivot, I used a picture hook and a ziptie. Bolt one end of the V shape of wood to the X gantry and tie the other end to the Y axis plate. Pictures will follow.
Wire the 24v to the tinyG, and the motors. Be sure you know which motor is which, as they proceed in number from right to left. (EG Motor 4 3 2 1). Wire the 2 y motors the same way, we will swich one’s polarity later on.
Wire the limit switches, us the NC pinset on the switches, and use the GROUND pin and the corresponding switch position pin on the tinyG. The Z axis does not have mounting space for a minimum switch, so either design one later or skip it. Pictures to follow.
Follow the initial setup steps on the tinyG wiki, using cool term to verify your tinyG functionality and setup the serial emulation for the controller. Then start entering settings to the machine, be warned, this step will need to be repeated more than once, because either you will enter the wrong settings, or the machine will forget them later. So save your numbers.
TinyG config settings, elevation table build, Estop, and large scale hello world to come.