MWP Y Axis Belt Dust Guards

‹ ›

66 likes

438 opens

141 copies

9 comments

Project by

Robert Rieke
Los Alamos, NM

General Information

Acrylic mirror to prevent dust and particulate buildup on the Y axis belts, and reflect light onto the project for better viewing. Designed to work with the MWP Y Axis Braces, although they can be used alone.

Project License

Attribution 3.0 Unported (CC BY 3.0)

Like this project Open in Easel^®

Material		Description	Price
	Button Head Cap Screw (×3)	Length: 10mm, Quantity: 10, Thread Size: M5
	Flat Washer (×3)	Finish: Black Oxide, Dimensions: I.D: 5.3mm; O.D: 10mm, Quantity: 10	$12.00
	Post-Assembly T-Slot Nuts (×3)	Thread Size: M5 (5mm) × 0.8, Qty: 10 pack	$31.47
This project's Bill of Materials is not complete. Add to Cart			$43.47 from Inventables

Heads Up

This project was designed to be used with the MWP Y-Axis Braces project (Link), which uses 1/8" aluminum braces to stiffen the Y-axis, and includes all the hardware necessary for both projects.

You will not need to order the hardware for this project if you intend to do the braces as well.

If you decide not to make the braces, do the following:
1. Order the hardware listed for this project.
2. Replace the large holes (~0.500") with smaller holes (~0.200"), keeping them centered in the same location as the large holes.

Evann made a great addition to this project, you should consider checking it out: https://www.inventables.com/projects/remake-minor-fixes-of-mwp-dust-guards

Flatten Wasteboard

30 minutes

Since you are cutting acrylic, you will want a VERY flat wasteboard. Either flatten the wasteboard, or do like me and cut a .050" deep pocket slightly larger than the workpiece in a secondary wasteboard.

Cut the Dust Guards

45 minutes

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CUT ACRYLIC WITHOUT ENSURING YOUR MACHINE IS PROPERLY DIALED IN!

Using proper feeds and speeds, cut the dust guardsout of the acrylic mirror. Ensure the acrylic is properly clamped to the wasteboard, especially if you are using an upcut endmill.

Sand Top Edges

Using 150 or 220 grit sandpaper, sand the top edges of the dust guards enough to remove the sharp edges left from the milling process.

Install Dust Guards

30 minutes

If using pre-assembly t-slot nuts, remove one makerslide end plate on one Y-axis makerslide and insert 6 t-slot nuts into each slot on the inside of the makerslide.

If using post-assembly t-slot nuts, insert 6 t-slot nuts into each slot on the inside of the Y rails.

If using the Y-axis braces (Link), use washers and 12mm bolts to hold the dust guard in place through the bottom holes.

If not using the Y-axis braces, use washers and 10mm bolts to hold the dust guard in place through the top and bottom holes.

Repeat for the other Y-axis makerslide.

Your "Oh Shit" e-stop button gave me a good chuckle. I might have to borrow that on my setup. BTW, this is all really good stuff. Your YouTube vids have been helping me get my machine all setup, and these upgrades look pretty valuable for the precision work I'm planning. Thanks.
Nicholas Koza

So I like your idea actually I was in the process of designing my own and then I saw yours lol I did add one thing to your design and that is a little spacer for the ends of the dust shield I wish I could post the easel file hear but oh well
WorkinWoods

Can you do a tutorial, or at least share the file for the secondary wasteboard you have? Do you have hole for every wasteboard insert hole?
Ryan Cannon

I'm glad this project has been helpful, along with my videos. I also liked your change, Evann, and added the link to it. Ryan, I'm hoping to replace the white secondary wasteboard and will make a project for it when I do. All the holes match the main wasteboard holes, which are on a 75x75mm grid.
Robert Rieke

I've seen you said in another post that you always secure bolts with loctite. Where do you apply it and how much? Is it easy to remove if you need to unscrew? You did it for all the screws of the machine?
Martin

I use the blue Loctite, which is easy to remove. Red will lock it in place until you use a torch to heat it up. I usually put a drop or two at the end of the bolt, bolt it up, and let it cure overnight. For large/long bolts, I'll put a drop in the nut or tapped hole to ensure there's loctite there.
Robert Rieke

I think I used it on all of my bolts, including the X-axis mod furniture bolts and the V-wheel bolts. With a machine like this, chatter can make them rattle loose, and loose bolts usually mean decreased accuracy.
Robert Rieke

When you say "end of the bolt", you mean close to the head, or after the nut?, or you mean at the end O------- <- here, and then you insert it ? Thanks for all your useful info!
Martin

What in the heck acrylic are you talking about? Am I supposed to buy some or know what to buy? If so, there is none listed in the bill of materials. Please clarify, as I would LOVE to make a rigid 1800mm Y Axis. Thank you.
Jay Johnson